Though literally meaning "two gluttons," I'm a little letdown that the English translation for this title does not have an equally beautiful thought for this word. Glutton brings to mind a guiltless pig mindlessly stuffing his face with Lay's potato chips in front of the T.V. Whereas gourmand(e) conjures images of one who appreciates plump juicy berries ripe in their summer prime, the crunchiness of crisp green zucchini, the velvety feel of a rich chunk of chocolate rolling off the tip of your tongue or the fruity, yet peppery aroma of a finely-aged wine accompanied by the perfect blend of creamy cheeses.
In short, a gourmand is one who appreciates the food he
experiences on a daily basis. And unlike its English counterpart, to be gourmand is
not a sin.
Though after my weekend, maybe it should be! I've been following a successful low-carb/low-sugar diet and am (was before this weekend) almost two kilos lighter to show for it! But that always changes whenever I'm with my dad.
I need to back up just a little here. On Friday I was supposed to leave the Antibes station at 6 p.m. in order to get to Orange near 10. However, upon my arrival I noticed that EVERY SINGLE TRAIN was going to be two-and-a-half to three hours late. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that my train -- the only one going to Orange for the night -- was canceled! And if I were to leave Saturday morning, it would be useless because it'd take nearly half the day to get there.
No, I know what you're thinking. There was not a strike -- for once. Instead there was a fire on some of the rails near Les Arcs. I'll get to that in a second. Anyways, after waiting in line for 20 minutes to see what I could do about my ticket, I found out there was a delayed train going to Paris that made its last stop in Aix-en-Provence, which is only an hour away from Orange. Long story short, I hopped on that train which left literally five minutes after I left the ticket counter and what should have been a two hour train took nearly four hours. There were "unforeseen stops" because we had to wait the fire out. Though in Les Arcs, we kind of drove right over some of the flames, hot flames. And I made it to Orange around the same time I should have been there originally. Thank God for a dad with a car!
Saturday morning started out well, just like the rest of the trip from there on out! We began the morning with a Best Western buffet filled to the brim with delicious yogurt, bread and cheeses that have been adding extra kilos on to my formerly average body! Grrr... After we walked around the city and explored some of the Roman ruins and artsy little boutiques. Now I can proudly say that I own my first Longchamp bag (see below) -- Longchamp is to France what Coach is to California.

Speaking of shopping, the boutiques in Orange are all so artfully set up! My favorite part was just walking into the shops and enjoying the extravagance of all the displays. For my dad; however, I think his highlight was photographing the 100 fountains of Orange.
We next took our trip south to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and sat in a
caveau or two for some
dégustation du vin (wine tasting!). I'm afraid I haven't yet developed an appreciation for this varietal, as the dry, harsh climate lends to a higher alcohol percentage and a heavy, peppery taste that lingers on the tongue. Though I did enjoy the chocolate factory located on one of the vineyards who proudly displayed a 12 kilo chocolate Easter egg on sale for 180 Euros!!!
After that, we found ourselves with a few more hours to kill until dinner and made our way to Avignon. I officially take back what I said about Lyon being my favorite city in France!
Vieux Avignon has won me over with its antiquated Roman structures and "modern-hippie" quarter tucked right in the heart of an upscale shopping district. It was kind of like a really high-end L.A.-type area meets Berkeley's Telegraph Avenue. I loved it! If you haven't yet been, you must. Better yet, it felt really young because the walled part of the city is right along the border of a university campus. Perhaps in another life I'll study abroad in Avignon.
Today -- Palm Sunday to be exact -- we drove around in search of more relics of the Roman Empire. As we left Orange's city limits, we came across the "Arc de Triomphe" that was built in 20 B.C. Though after a few hours of nothing as impressive, we agreed to return to Châteauneuf-du-Pape for our final lunch at
La Mère Germaine. The menu was all fixed price, so I ended up ordering the following:
-Velouté de châtaignes (chestnut cream soup)
-No idea what, but some kind of fish farci (stuffed with risotto and tomatoes)
-Brochette d'ananas au coulis de fruits rouges et perles du Japon (Roasted pineapple skewers with berry sauce and tapioca)
And don't forget a chilled glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape
blanc! Heaven. Even so, I was a little too full to board my train 15 minutes after. Luckily, because of the damage Friday's fires did to the tracks everything heading south was delayed 15 minutes.
Peu importe, I still made it back to Marseille on time and ready for my connection back to Antibes.
And now I'm back. Oh yeah, I also consumed two packets of antibiotics, three travel-sized Kleenex and a handful of antisceptic lemon throat losenges. Plus a shot of Nyquil! What an end to a great weekend :)
I leave you with some photos:
Orange


Châteauneuf-du-Pape




Avignon
